Washington now making some zinfandels with zing

Some of the best zinfandels I have tasted recently came — rather surprisingly — not from California but from Washington. The grape used to be a rarity in Washington, but no longer. Thurston Wolfe has made single-vineyard zins since the mid-1990s, and Forgeron began producing them in 2001 (a recent tasting of Forgeron’s first six vintages showed them all to be in excellent drinking condition). Rob Griffin’s new Columbia Gorge project includes a zinfandel vineyard, and Barnard-Griffin already makes some limited bottlings from nearby grapes. Also in the gorge, Maryhill makes both a regular and a reserve zinfandel; for me, the regular is not only the better one but the winery’s best red overall.

New entrants to the field include Chelan’s Hard Row to Hoe winery; its 2006 zin ($35), sourced from Wahluke Slope grapes, is syrupy and dense, with super-ripe blackberry fruit, mocha and butterscotch. What sets it apart from similar California efforts is that it retains natural acids and some lovely herbal highlights, so it’s not just a hot, heavy, alcoholic date — the sort that leaves you exhausted but somehow unsatisfied.

Walla Walla’s Trio Vintners made a splash with its delicious (but oh-so-high-octane) 2006 zin. Its 2007 Pheasant vineyard zinfandel ($26) is just as good, but swings less of a hammer. The alcohol is down a notch or two, without sacrificing the concentrated essence of raspberries and cherries, also lifted with all-natural acids.

Three Angels is an Oregon winery with a pair of single-vineyard Washington zins in its portfolio, one from Les Collines, one from Avery (both $20). If I had to choose, I’d go with Les Collines for its brambly strawberry fruit flavors, intertwined with spice and cola.

Must all zins be 15 percent alcohol and higher? These days, it’s tough to find anything except the cheapest examples coming in under 14 percent, and few under 15. On a trip to Paso Robles, Calif., this past January, I sampled a wide selection in all price ranges. Favorite bottles, all in the big bruiser category, were: Bianchi 2006 Zen Ranch Estate ($24); Grey Wolf Cellars 2006 Dusi Vineyard ($40); Peachy Canyon 2006 BFD ($36); Rotta 2005 Heritage ($18); Tobin James 2006 Ballistic ($18) and 2006 James Gang Reserve ($28); and Treana Lot One Candor ($20), this last made in a softer, more gentle style, perhaps because it is a nonvintage blend.

On the value end, look for J. Lohr 2007 Old Vines ($15), and these from other parts of California: Artezin 2006 Mendocino County ($18); Bogle 2006 Old Vine Cuvée ($11); Cline Cellars 2007 California ($12); and Ravenswood 2006 Old Vine Lodi ($12).

You will often find the words old vines, heritage vines or ancient vines prominently displayed on zinfandel labels. These are unregulated terms, and should never be taken at face value. Wines made from truly old zinfandel vines — I take this to mean planted pre-Prohibition — generally turn up on single-vineyard bottles, with vineyard details clearly described on the back label or the winery Web site. Heritage vines are rarely old; they are usually recent plantings cloned from older vines.

The best of these old-vine zins offer subtle flavors — wild and brambly red fruits with light, sweet grassy/grainy notes — often at relatively moderate alcohol levels. As we look forward to the coming season of barbecues and outdoor dining, zinfandels should be your first choice for summertime reds.