89: It’s a Killer of a Score.
You see, it’s complicated. There are times you will either love them or hate them.
Who is “them?” Points. Wine points — those two little digits, or rare three digits, created by Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate newsletter. These numbers communicate to the wine consumer if a wine is worthy of purchase.
Several professional wine groups and wine publications have adopted the point system. And it’s important to note these digits are based on one palate or a group of peers who blind taste and determine the scores. These digits are powerful: They can either make or break the sale of a wine.
Sometimes they can be magical numbers. Scores of 90 to the elusive 100 can bring accolades and sales to the winemaker who has worked so diligently. Scores of 80-89 means a barely above average to very good score for a wine that shows no character flaws. These B+ scores can be just as important, especially to a new winemaker’s first wine release.
Of course, there isn’t anything magical about an average score of 70-79, and who wants a below average score of 60-69? Let’s not even discuss the scores of 50-59, especially when Parker starts all wines with 50 points for, well, merely existing in a bottle, I guess.
Parker’s numbering system has met with controversy. Some wines have been accused of purposely being designed to meet Parker’s personal preferences and changing certain traditional “old world” wine styles.
The Parker digits certainly have influenced prices and sales, driving some customers to buy only wines rated at 90 or above, while making perfectly good wines rated from 75–89 hard to sell, when in fact these wines may be excellent bargains for the quality. Besides the prices, does the average American wine consumer’s palate really meet the same standards of a man who has devoted his lifestyle and occupation to the world of wine? Even Parker has stated:
“…there can never be any substitute for your own palate nor any better education than tasting the wine yourself.”
In the late ’70s the rock band Three Dog Night released a song, “One,” with the lyrics, “One is the loneliest number that you’ll ever do.”
When it comes to wine scores, “89 is the Loneliest Number.” You see, a wine given a score of “89” teeters on that edge of not being good enough to be a 90. The score of 89 can be the “kiss of death” to a perfectly well-crafted bottle of wine, as one local tasting room manager pointed out to me.
And really, what is the difference between a wine that has been given 89 points and a wine with 90 points? It’s just one point people! And yes, I am talking to those of you who will not walk into a winery unless the wines have scores of 90 points and above. Don’t you trust your own palate? Do you not appreciate the true art and romance of the fruit and terroir or are you just into trophy collecting?
Oh the humanity! Is there any help for the “point-less?” Or is it pointless?
Attorney and self-educated oenophile, David Honig created “The 89 Project,” and has invited wine bloggers to post opinions and reviews regarding wines that were given an 89 rating. It is his hope these “red-headed stepchildren of the wine world” can be given a second chance to shine. And yours truly has done her best to give Walla Walla wines their 15 minutes of fame, as well.
In the meantime, to challenge the point system is rather pointless until someone comes up with another reasonable alternative to rate wines. The wine bloggers of the 89 Project won’t change the point system, but if it gets wine consumers thinking about their own personal palate and wine purchases, the project has served its purpose. Besides, wine bloggers have already come under criticism by Parker. In April, he announced on his message board:
“… bloggers … or should I say blobbers … are the source of much of the misinformation, distortion, and egregious falsehoods spread with reckless abandon on the internet …”
“Blobbers?” That’s a pretty funny name, especially from a guy by the name of — Bob.
Catie McIntyre Walker is a “blobber” and writes the “Through The Walla Walla Grape Vine” blog at http://www.wildwallawallawinewoman.blogspot.com


