Wine and Dine Walla Walla » The Grapevine

Walla Walla Wine Rewind – 2010

Catie McIntyre Walker — Wed, 05 Jan 2011 02:25:48 +0000

Wow! That was fast. 2011 is already here. Let’s rewind and take a look at our southeast corner of Washington State.

The last count of wineries, based on the new wine maps by Tourism Walla Walla, is 103 wineries are operating in the valley and more than 1,800 acres of vineyards are part of our agricultural landscape. Sure – lately wineries have come and come, but usually very few go. Unfortunately, 2010 bought to a close, Yellow Hawk Cellars and Nicholas Cole Cellars. Yellow Hawk Cellars had been operating since 1998 and been known for their affordable Italian varietals. For Yellow Hawk partner’s, Tim Sampson and Barbara Hetrick, their decision to leave their business was based on taking advantage of their stationary condition and leave while the going was good. Their last day of business was July 3.

Mike Neuffer of Nicholas Cole Cellars will be known for his beautiful red Bordeaux-style blends affectionately named after the women in his family. Mike’s wines were founded on the belief that “great wines are made one vine at a time” and released his inaugural Bordeaux blend in 2001. Indeed it was a sad announcement to hear, just before Christmas, that he would be placing an indefinite hiatus on wine making and future vintages of Nicholas Cole and GraEagle wines. Mike relocated to Seattle to be with his children, Michele and Nicholas, after the loss of their mother, Susan, in August due to cancer. I wish Michael, his family and the Nicholas Cole Cellars staff all of my best.
It was musical chairs when it came to Walla Walla wineries. Amavi Cellars built an ultra-modern facility on Peppers Bridge Road and Gramercy Cellars willbe moving into Amavi’s old facility on North 13th. Bunchgrass Winery reopened with additional partners after being closed for awhile. Trio Vintners moved out of the incubator facility at the airport and Corvus Cellars moved in. Trio Vintners can now be found at their new tasting room at 102 S. Second Avenue. Ash Hollow Winery left their Second Street address to move to the airport and Mackey Vineyards moved in. SuLei Cellars opened up a tasting room on Second Ave, in addition to their winery at Beet Road. Sinclair Estate Vineyards opened a tasting room on Main Street.

This spring, Tero Estates in Milton-Freewater announced their open house and new releases located on the old Windrow Vineyard as well their purchase of the Flying Trout label leaving founder/winemaker Ashley Trout more time for production. Tim and Lori Kennedy opened their new tasting room in Milton-Freewater naming their winery and vineyard after Lori’s grandfather, Don Carlo. In the mean time, Jan and Doug of Tero Estates, Tim and Lori of Don Carlo and Mike and Penne of Locati Cellars announced their move to the neighboring tasting rooms at the Marcus Whitman Hotel on Second and Rose Streets (a great neighborhood).

And also in that ‘hood, Trey Busch of Sleight of Hand Cellars announced he would be leaving his Second Street tasting room as he broke ground for a new facility to be opened in the spring of 2011 on JB George Road. Now the guess is, who will move into that spot? Whew! Have I forgotten anyone? In the meantime, there are other new winery moves on the horizon, but at this time I am sworn to secrecy.

Speaking of moves, like the great pioneer spirit, “Go West Young Men” and that’s what they did. About a half-dozen Walla Walla wineries from A – Z (Amavi to Zerba) opened second tasting rooms in the growing wine villages of Woodinville near Seattle. Reason? To increase sales and to go where the dollars and people are. It is still on the board on what the impact will be to those wineries and in fact, impact on those wineries remaining in the Walla Walla Valley. Will Walla Walla lose that tourism from the West they have relied on and will those second tasting rooms be diluting their customer base?

In January Cayuse Vineyards announced that after 13 years of releases on their usual first weekend in November, the 2010 November’s Cayuse release date would be cancelled and moved to April 2011. This announcement left us wondering what would happen to the independent Fall Release Weekend that Walla Walla wineries had based their weekend around Cayuse. Will they drop their usual weekends and follow Cayuse around or stand on their own?

A new fangled thing called, “Social Media” came-a-knocking at the Walla Walla wineries and it was embraced. The first Twitter Taste Event to promote awareness of Washington Merlot was held at Otis Kenyon Tasting Room. Later we would rally around with our cell phones and laptops again while drinking wine at the Olive Marketplace twittering like crazy promoting all Washington wines and then again this fall at Amavi Cellars and Seven Hills Winery promoting Washington Cabernet.

It’s no secret that Walla Walla is a hidden little destination and during the week of June 21 eight miles of old U.S. Highway 12 was re-opened after it was tucked, plucked, widened and realigned, but the new highway’s “cosmetic surgery” caused problems for several wineries. Wineries such as Bunchgrass, Cougar Crest, Glencorrie, Long Shadows Vintners, Skylite Cellars, Reininger, and Three Rivers, located on the “old” stretch of highway, were no longer on the GPA and it couldn’t have happened at an inconvenient time, as over 300 wine bloggers and industry people were coming to town – -

Unattractive whining, crying, screaming, kicking and breath holding (don’t look at me) took place during discussions about where the 2010 Third Annual North American Wine Bloggers Conference would be held. The last two years Napa Valley/Sonoma in California had been host but event coordinators were looking for a new environment. The Washington Wine Commission threw their hat in the ring on behalf of Woodinville. Sure, Woodinville is close to a cosmopolitan area and has plenty of tasting rooms – - but where were the grapes? In Walla Walla, of course! With the assistance of the Elizabeth Martin-Calder, former Executive Director of the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance, she reeled them in and the conference was a sell out! In fact, the largest to date. Walla Walla Wine Alliance, Tourism Walla Walla and the Downtown Foundation went over and above to show our guests a wonderful time. What it meant for the Washington State Wine industry was a new awareness of Washington wines, as well as an increase in their role in the wine social media world.

A month after the successful North American Wine Bloggers Conference,the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance announced that Elizabeth Martin-Calder resigned her post after more than four years as Executive Director. The WWVWA has yet to fill this position.

And then there was crush … no wait. Not yet. And then there was crush … Nope. Not quite yet … hold on … hold on … and then finally – - there was crush. There was precipitation and then there was heat and then a small window came about to get the grapes in before frost. There were many a winemaker feeling a mix of a welcome challenge and a small bit of confusion. My guess? 2010 will be a banner vintage, but with a small production.

Many Walla Walla wineries received awards and accolades, in fact Washington State as a whole received an abundance. Walla Walla’s Gramercy Cellars was named Food & Wine magazine’s “Best New Winery in America.” Tamarack Firehouse Red Columbia Valley 2008, Waterbrook Merlot Columbia Valley Reserve 2007, and Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007 made the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 wine list. The WS gave the highest scores (97 points) ever to Charles Smith Royal City Syrah 2006 and to Cayuse Armada Vineyard Syrah 2006. In fact, the WS also devoted their cover and pages to the wines of Washington State.

The following wines found their way on the Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100: Long Shadow’s Poet’s Leap Riesling 2009, Rulo Syrah 2007, Woodward Canyon Chardonnay 2009, Buty Sémillon-Sauvignon-Muscadelle 2008, Abeja Merlot 2008, and Dowsett Family Celilo Vineyard Gewürztraminer 2009. Dr Jay Miller of Parker’s Wine Advocate was also very generous with the many deserving wines of Walla Walla.

Fall Release weekend came and went and before we knew it, it was Holiday Barrel Tasting/Macy’s Christmas Light Parade which has always been held the first weekend of December. Movement about the town seemed slower than previous Holiday Barrel Tasting Weekends. There were the usual concerns about the weather, of course. Hey, it’s winter, right? It was also a big weekend for WSU Cougar and UW Husky rivals to once again face each other at the long-standing Apple Cup. There were also concerns that Seattle-ites may have forsaken the frosty wine country of Walla Walla to stay home and visit St. Nick and the Woodinville “strip-mall” wineries instead. This may have been a convenient choice for many since a few of the Walla Walla wineries also have tasting rooms in Woodinville.

2011 will be another exciting year for the wine industry of Walla Walla and many questions will be answered. Will Woodinville and Walla Walla give each other the hairy eyeball as to who will change their holiday weekends? Will the WWVWA ever find an Executive Director? What winery will move to Second Street? What winery will move to Woodinville and what winery will leave Woodinville? Will the wineries follow the new Cayuse weekend again and again …? What winery will move in 2011? Stay tuned to these answers and more as the Walla Walla Wine World Turns.

Here’s to a happy, healthy and prosperous New Year. Cheers!

And they paired happily ever after

Catie McIntyre Walker — Mon, 20 Sep 2010 17:20:24 +0000

It’s all about contrasts — avoiding bad ones and embracing good ones.

There I was, gathering fruit and scrambled eggs on my plate at the Marcus Whitman Hotel breakfast buffet, when I happened to look up and say “Good morning” to a very familiar, yet out-of-town face.

It wasn’t just a face I had seen in passing, but someone I had actually seen on national television: Chef Jeffrey Saad, runner-up on Season Five of “The Next Food Network Star.”

Later that morning, Jeffrey would be our guest speaker at the Food and Wine Pairing seminar at the Wine Bloggers Conference, and he talked to me about his whirlwind trip to Walla Walla. Jeffrey is more engaging in person than on TV, as the audience experiences first hand his energy and enthusiasm for food.

The tools needed for food and wine pairings are simple: nose, tongue and love for treating our mouths with delicious flavor combinations. Jeffrey captured my attention when he brought up simple pairings such as ketchup and french fries. I am not a fan of ketchup, but I understand why children favor this sweet condiment. As Jeffrey pointed out, its sweetness balances the salt of the fries and its acidity offsets the fat.

Based on similar ideas, here are some of Jeffrey’s suggestions for pairings using matching or contrasting food and wine examples.

Match

ACID WITH ACID: Citrus- or tomato-based foods will soften the acids in the wine while bringing out its fruity notes. This is why spaghetti with a red sauce is a must with chianti, or sangiovese, both known for their bright acids.

SWEET WITH SWEET: In this pairing, sweetness is tamed, and flavors of food and wine are accentuated. A bite of a simple apple pie is accentuated by a sip of a late-harvest riesling, as chocolate mousse is by a sip of Port.

Contrast

FAT WITH ACID: Salmon is a fatty fish, and a sprinkle of lemon “cleans” the fat and brings the flavors together. Similarly, a steel-fermented chardonnay or a crisp Spanish albarino is a perfect pairing for fish.

PROTEIN WITH TANNIN: Just as cream softens the tannins in strongly brewed pekoe teas, red meat and fats soften the tannins in a wine.Conversely, the tannins in wine cleanse meat fat like lemon assists in reducing the flavors of fat in fish or seafood. A simple example would be a fatty prime rib paired with a glass of cabernet sauvignon. Even the sweet, caramelized flavors of roasted or grilled vegetables can tame the tannins in red wine.

Contrasts to avoid

SALTY WITH HIGH ALCOHOL: This pairing will exaggerate the alcohol in the wine. Drink lower-alcohol white wines, such as “bubbles” (Champagne, cava and Prosecco), off-dry (sweet) whites, such as a German riesling or gewürztraminer, with salty foods.

NUTS WITH TANNINS: Tannins in the red wine are accentuated by this pairing. Skip the salty cashews with the cabernet sauvignon and reach for a chilled chardonnay, instead.

HOT ’N’ SPICY WITH TANNINS: Again, in this combination, the tannins become accentuated. My favorite pairings with curry, chicken fajitas or spicy Asian-inspired entrees are off-dry whites, such as riesling or gewürztraminer. Such a pairing allows the fruity notes of the wine to really show off.

We often think of wine and cheese pairing together, but there are so many choices, and I am not talking Velveeta or spray-can, processed-food “cheese” either. A cheesemonger once told me that when in doubt, go with an off-dry riesling. Jeffrey says off- dry wines, such as riesling, Sauternes and chenin blanc are safe with most cheeses.

Strict red wine lovers can enjoy their wine with well-aged cheeses, such as an old Wisconsin Cheddar or pecorino Romano, but creamy cheeses such as Brie can wipe out the tannins in a red wine, leaving the wine flat. Avoid red wines paired with stinky cheeses, such as Stilton or taleggio. However, when in Rome …

Enjoy these ideas and don’t forget to experiment on your own. Entertain your palate!

Catie McIntyre Walker writes the Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman blog at wildwallawallawinewoman.blogspot.com.

Jeffrey Saad’s top three food-friendly wines.

Barbera: The bright fruit of this acidic red grape will pair with a variety of foods. The Italians often pair this varietal with tomato-based pastas, fatty sausages and cheeses.

Rosé: Pretty pink wines will pair with almost everything matching the acids in produce, while showing off enough fruit to offset spicy foods. also, the tannins from the minimal grape skin contact allow this wine to stand up to most proteins. Rosés are great for hot summer days when you want the flavors of a red wine, but want the chill of a white.

Champagne: Low-alcohol “bubbles” with high acidity will marry well with a range of foods, some of which might surprise you. Skip the caviar while sipping champagne. Instead, pair it with fried chicken and even popcorn or potato chips. I prefer Spanish cava because it typically shows less yeast and more fruit than traditional Champagne.

Seattle Metropolitan’s Magazine Top 100 Washington Wines

Catie McIntyre Walker — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 08:52:17 +0000

Yesterday, the Seattle Metropolitan Magazine released their list of the Top 100 Washington wines by Sean P. Sullivan. Sean is the author of Washington Wine Report, an independent wine blog focused on Washington State wines.

It is pretty exciting to note that over half of the wines on the list are produced in the Walla Walla Valley. For a more detailed list with points and prices, please check the Seattle Met’s site:

1. Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007
2. Cayuse Vineyards God Only Knows Grenache Armada Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2006
3. Woodward Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines Washington State 2007
4. Waters Winery Syrah Forgotten Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007
5. Owen Roe Syrah Chapel Block Red Willow Vineyard Yakima Valley 2008
6. Buty Winery Rediviva of the Stones Walla Walla Valley 2007
7. Rasa Vineyards Principia Reserve Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2007
8. Grand Reve Collaboration Series II Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2007
9. Gramercy Cellars Syrah Lagniappe Columbia Valley 2007
10. Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007
11. Betz Family Winery La Cote Patriarche Syrah Yakima Valley 2008
12. Rasa Vineyards QED Walla Walla Valley 2008
13. Amavi Cellars Syrah Les Collines Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007
14. Kerloo Cellars Syrah Les Collines Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007
15. K Vintners Syrah Phil Lane Walla Walla Valley 2007
16. Corliss Estates Syrah Columbia Valley 2005
17. Col Solare Red Wine Columbia Valley 2006
18. Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007
19. DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate Red Wine Red Mountain 2007
20. Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007
21. Cadence Winery Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2007
22. Buty Winery Columbia Rediviva Phinny Hill Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2006
23. L’Ecole No. 41 Apogee Red Wine Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2007
24. Sleight of Hand Cellars The Archimage Walla Walla Valley 2007
25. Andrew Will Winery Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2007
26. Novelty Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007
27. Efestē Jolie Bouche Syrah Yakima Valley 2007
28. K Vintners Syrah Milbrandt Wahluke Slope 2008
29. Soos Creek Wine Cellars Artist Series #7 Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007
30. Bergevin Lane Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007
31. Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon Red Willow Vineyard 2007
32. Milbrandt Vineyards Sentinel Northridge Red Wine Wahluke Slope 2007
33. Northstar Winery Merlot Walla Walla Valley 2007
34. Saviah Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007
35. àMaurice Cellars Malbec Columbia Valley 2007
36. Fidelitas Merlot Columbia Valley 2006
37. Tranche Cellars Roussanne Viognier Columbia Valley 2007
38. JM Cellars Tre Faniciulli Columbia Valley 2007
39. Chateau Ste. Michelle Meritage Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007
40. Buty Winery Chardonnay Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008
41. Columbia Crest Walter Clore Private Reserve Red Wine 2006
42. Soos Creek Wine Cellars Ciel du Cheval Red Wine Red Mountain 2007
43. Trust Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2007
44. Alexandria Nicole Marsanne Destiny Ridge Vineyards Horse Heaven Hills 2009
45. Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon ‘the V’ 2007 Columbia Valley
46. Pomum Cellars Shya Red Wine Yakima Valley 2007
47. Rasa Vineyards Riesling The Composer Sagemoor Vineyards Columbia Valley 2008
48. L’Ecole No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007
49. Darby The Dark Side Syrah Columbia Valley 2007
50. àMaurice Cellars ‘Sparrow’ Estate Viognier Walla Walla Valley 2009
51. Va Piano Syrah Columbia Valley 2007
52. Bergevin Lane Vineyards ‘Barrel Select’ Syrah Columbia Valley 2006
53. Dumas Station Cowcatcher Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2007
54. Otis Kenyon Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2007
55. Pacific Rim Riesling Columbia Valley 2009
56. Long Shadows Pirouette Red Wine Columbia Valley 2006
57. Betz Family Winery Clos de Betz Red Wine Columbia Valley 2007
58. Dusted Valley Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007
59. Buty Winery 69% Sémillon, 26% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle Columbia Valley 2008
60. Fielding Hills Winery Cabernet Franc Riverbend Vineyard Wahluke Slope 2007
61. Forgeron Cellars Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2007
62. Mark Ryan Dead Horse Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2007
63. Bunchgrass Winery Syrah Lewis Vineyard Columbia Valley 2007
64. Woodward Canyon Chardonnay Washington State 2008
65. Côte Bonneville Carriage House DuBrul Vineyard Yakima Valley 2006
66. Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007
67. Rotie Cellars Southern Blend Washington State 2008
68. Fidelitas Malbec Columbia Valley 2007
69. Doyenne ‘Signature’ Syrah Yakima Valley 2007
70. Woodward Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series #16 Washington State 2007
71. Northstar Winery Merlot Columbia Valley 2006
72. Januik Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007
73. Spring Valley Uriah Red Wine Walla Walla Valley 2007
74. Grand Reve Collaboration Series I Red Wine Ciel du Cheval Red Mountain 2006
75. Mark Ryan Lonely Heart Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2007
76. Syncline Cellars Roussanne Horse Heaven Hills 2008
77. Fidelitas Red Wine Red Mountain 2007
78. Long Shadows Poet’s Leap Riesling Columbia Valley 2008
79. DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate Blanc Columbia Valley 2008
80. Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2008
81. William Church Winery Viognier Columbia Valley 2009
82. Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling Columbia Valley 2008
83. Zero One Vintners The Wild Sky Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2007
84. Forgeron Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley 2005 $30 90 points
85. Pacific Rim Riesling Organic Columbia Valley 2009
86. Tranche Cellars Barbera Columbia Valley 2005
87. Syncline Cellars Syrah McKinley Spring Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills 2008
88. Walter Dacon Syrah ‘Appanage’ Boushey Vineyards Yakima Valley 2007
89. Dunham Cellars Merlot Lewis Vineyard Columbia Valley 2006
90. Trust Cellars Riesling Columbia Valley 2009
91. Alexandria Nicole Quarry Butte Estate Grown Red Wine Destiny Ridge Vineyards Horse Heaven Hills 2008
92. Tempus Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2007
93. Hestia Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2006
94. Boudreaux Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Washington State 2005
95. Darby Grenache Stillwater Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley 2008
96. Sleight of Hand Cellars The Spellbinder Red Wine Columbia Valley 2008
97. Waters Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2006
98. Novelty Hill Malbec Stillwater Creek Vineyard Columbia Valley 2007 99. Tsillan Cellars Syrah Estate Barrel Select Lake Chelan 2007
100. Dunham Cellars Late Harvest Riesling Lewis Estate Vineyard 2008

Double Back Home: Drew Bledsoe

Catie McIntyre Walker — Tue, 03 Aug 2010 22:13:58 +0000

It was football that took him away from his home town, but it was wine that made him double back.

When you are invited to an Inaugural Release and first Open House event for a wine by a former All-Star NFL quarterback in your minds eye there are visions of fans crowding a locker room, but this wasn’t the case. The sunny afternoon in June was a friendly and casual atmosphere that allowed all of the guests time with the stars of the day and of course, all eyes were on the Doubleback Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007.

Drew Bledsoe is a ”hometown boy” that many of us in the Walla Walla Valley have kept an eye on. We watched him play football at Walla Walla High School and we continued to watch him during his three-year football career at Washington State University before he was drafted in 1993 by the New England Patriots. As if we all had ownership in him, I can remember how the draft became a big discussion even in the local coffee shops, “Should our hometown star quarterback have continued to stay in college to get his education or was being drafted by the NFL the best choice for him?”

Like many students in Eastern Washington, especially those attending WSU at Pullman, Drew’s drink of choice wasn’t wine, but that golden beverage that is often fermented with malted barley instead of grapes. It was in later years, after college, when Drew and his wife, Maura started ordering wine with dinner and discovered the fascinating qualities in wine and even toured Napa Valley visiting with winemakers. His passion for wine grew and at the same time he became fascinated by the tremendous growth of the wine industry back “home” – home being Walla Walla, of course.

In true Walla Walla fashion, we natives never seem to have a problem reconnecting with each other no matter where we live or what we are doing. Kevin Bacon has nothing on us with his seven degrees of separation, because if you are from Walla Walla, we can connect within three degrees. And that is exactly what happened with Drew Bledsoe and Chris Figgins, winemaker of Leonetti Cellar and consultant/owner of Figgins Enological. The two had grown up a “stones throw” away from each other and from their point of reconnection, it became a collaboration from dirt to bottle to form Doubleback.

In 2008, the McQueen Vineyard was planted in cabernet and merlot. The 52-acre partially planted vineyard is on top of a hill in the SeVien Vineyard project southwest of Milton-Freewater in the Walla Walla Valley AVA. It was truly a family project as the Bledsoe children helped plant some of the vines. Compost tea and water practices are followed under the growing practices of VINEA, the Walla Walla Valley’s wine grower’s sustainable trust. Doubleback is currently being made at Artifex Wine Company (a custom crush facility) in Walla Walla under the direction of Chris, with plans to build a winery on the McQueen Vineyard site in the near future, as well as completion of the vineyard.

Inside of the high shouldered dark bottle of wine, with its elegant logo of silver and gold arches signifying the monogram of Doubleback, is a Walla Walla wine in true character – the finest character, as the 2007 vintage is a blend of older Cabernet Sauvingon vines from the Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge Vineyards. Only 600 cases were produced and each bottle is numbered.

At first taste I knew the dark wine in my glass was going to be age worthy. The nose was typical Walla Walla fruit with it’s notes of rich earth, Autumn leaves, dark cherries with waves of cigar box. Oh how I wished for a decanter, as I knew this wine was trying to tell me more than what it could being stifled in a glass. There was structure to the tannins, but harmonious allowing for the dark fruit to show through. Rich flavors of cherries and plums were on the palate combined with a silky mouthfeel, leaving a finish of cocoa and spice. If possible, I would love to revisit this wine in another five years and of course, another five years after that – 10 years total. If I know the Figgins style, this Cabernet will age gracefully.

So, as I refer back to the topic that had the locals buzzing about Drew leaving WSU at Pullman to latch onto a dream, that very few young men will ever realize. I think Drew took the right path – and now with the realization of Doubleback, it is a path well taken. I will be looking forward to future releases.

Catie McIntyre Walker

Sear Away: The Bank and Get Grill Co.

Catie McIntyre Walker — Tue, 01 Jun 2010 14:48:17 +0000

The formula for good food is easy if you have a hot grill and a burning passion to serve the freshest vegetables and proteins. Chef Paul Freeman has definitely found the formula. Paul is an experienced French trained chef with over 15 years of catering experience. A fine balance of charisma blended with skill, and professionalism for his craft, equals a pleasurable meal. Watching Paul at the grill adds to the dining experience as he talks to his food and his guests using his own positive colloquialisms mixing greetings with kitchen terms such as “Sear Away.”

Growing up around agriculture, it was a natural for Paul to take his knowledge and perfect his grilling by using the finest meats and adding his “twist.” He also confides that when you are 19 years-old you discover that learning how to cook is a sure way to get a date.

Chef Paul would later introduce his cooking skills and his own twist on grilling while growing his business, Get Grill, at the Farmer’s Market in Moscow, Idaho. After several years of successfully running his business and working as the catering supervisor at the University of Idaho, Paul knew it was time for change and growth. He packed his mobile commissary and grill-on-wheels, and relocated to the Walla Walla Valley where he returned to school to attend the Culinary Arts and Science Program at Walla Walla Community College. Once in Walla Walla, Paul planted roots and has been seen at our own local Farmer’s Market and various local events. He can also be seen at Washington State University at Pullman where he serves his grilled delectable’s such as Santa Maria style tri-tip with fixing’s, at the campus’s Field House during WSU’s football season.

Always ambitious and looking to expand his ideas, Paul recently purchased the old bank building in Old Town Freewater Oregon at Milton-Freewater, 10 miles from the border in the Walla Walla Valley. Known by the locals as “The Bank,” the freestanding corner building with elegant Ionic columns was built in 1906. And as they say, “If walls could talk,” these walls would have their own tales of robbers on horses firing six-shooters and leaving with bags of gold riding off into the sunset. Paul has also left his own touch of nostalgia in his soon-to-be-opened restaurant named, of course, The Bank.

The once formal bank lobby is now painted in tones of warm apricot and trimmed in sage. The ornate vintage walk-in bank vault is now Paul’s office. Instead of bags of gold, inside of the vault, there are now starched white chef coats hanging from the vault ceiling. An assortment of old oak school teacher chairs and church pews create the finishing touch on the comfortable dining area. The entrance to the kitchen from the dining area is separated with an old saloon swing door fashioned from old barn wood. There is even a set of rugged old cowboy boots mounted like a metal sculpture reminding the visitor they are under the influence of the old west, yet infused with fine dining.

His goals for the new restaurant goes beyond dining, but also education about the food we eat and how we dine. Paul has a passion to teach and is eager to offer customers classes on how to hone their own cooking craft, from grilling tovarious ways of folding dining linens. A soft opening for the restaurant is planned for this summer. His pre fixe menu will include sustainable and in season produce and of course, special cuts of meat right off of the grill. Paul has promised slow food, but delivered fast – with energy. Sear away, Chef Paul!

By Catie McIntyre Walker

Discover Cooking with Lavender at Local Wineries!

Catie McIntyre Walker — Fri, 28 May 2010 20:22:46 +0000

On Tuesday I was out in my garden tending to my new pots of herbs and annuals and also doing some maintenance on the older plants. As I brushed against one of the three large lavender plants that have made their home in wine barrel planters, the heady fragrance stayed on my shirt sleeve and reminded me of how lavender and wine can pair together so well.

The goddesses of wine and herbs must have stayed with me throughout the day as I later discovered two local Walla Walla wineries will be featuring Seattle author, foodie, gardner and lavender enthusiast Kathy Gerht this holiday weekend.

Kathy will be introducing her new book, Discover Cooking with Lavender at Isenhower Cellars and Three Rivers Winery this weekend. Kathy will have her books for purchase, as well as be available for signing. She will also bring with her a sampling of recipes taken straight from her cookbook.

Kathy Gehrt’s cookbook “Discover Cooking with Lavender,” will take readers on a culinary adventure, exploring the fragrance and flavor of lavender. It features 75 recipes for seasonings, drinks, savory dishes and sweets. The book is filled with unique recipes, such as Lavender Ginger Lemon Sugar, Bruschetta with Tomatoes and Roasted Lavender, Strawberries with Lavender Yogurt Cream, Honey Ginger Lavender Lemonade, and Roasted Halibut á la Provence. Along with her recipe for Josephine’s Hot Chocolate, Kathy reveals to readers that lavender was the secret ingredient in the nightcap Josephine created to put Napoleon in a “romantic” mood.

You can join Kathy at Isenhower Cellars on Saturday, May 29 at 2:00pm and also at Three Rivers Winery on Sunday, May 30 at 12:00pm – 3:00pm. Just a mention of those recipes alone, I can think of all of the wines from both wineries that would make for perfect pairings with the cookbook’s recipes.

I am so looking forward to reading this book on my porch by my lavender while sipping a glass of summer rosé. I just have to know more about how Josephine put Napoleon in a romantic mood!

Cheers,

Catie McIntyre Walker

Don Carlo Vineyard: A chip off the old …

Catie McIntyre Walker — Fri, 14 May 2010 17:00:16 +0000

It used to be the most indulgent and extreme snack was Champagne and popcorn. However, I have recently discovered a new extreme and very addictive snack and it happened to be developed right here in our valley – Don Carlo Vineyard Chardonnay paired with Tim’s Cascade Style Potato Chips warmed up and sprinkled with grated parmesan cheese. And it’s even better if you get Tim Kennedy himself, the founder of Tim’s Cascade Style Chips, to fry up these golden crunchy potato chips fresh for you to pair with his wines.

Lori and Tim Kennedy are no strangers to our area and no strangers to wine. Lori’s grandfather, Carlo arrived in the United States from Italy and eventually settled in the Pacific Northwest Italian area of Seattle bringing his winemaking passion with him. Lori has fond memories growing up surrounding her family making wine. Tim eventually retired in 2005 from his 20-year chip making business and came back home to his roots in Athena, Or, which is 20 miles from Walla Walla.

In 2007, Lori and Tim purchased an old Milton-Freewater homestead near the Seven Hills Vineyard. The homestead also included an apple and cherry orchard. The first ten blocks of their vineyard was planted in Chardonnay and two acres of the old cherry trees were pulled and replaced with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc vines. The modest bungalow on the property is now the Don Carlo tasting room and headquarters.

In many ways, this area has now come full circle as Don Carlo Vineyard’s neighbor is the Pesciallo family who bonded the Blue Mountain Vineyards, the first commercial post-prohibition winery in the Walla Walla Valley. They produced Black Prince (aka Cinsault) and other Italian varietals for several years before succumbing to economics and climate in the 1950′s.

At this time there are three Don Carlo wines released. Tim’s snack making talent has also grown into a wine making talent, which includes: 2008 Chardonnay, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2007 Merlot. Lori’s grandfather’s wedding photo is the face of the Don Carlo Vineyard label. The wines are affordably priced and the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are produced from Walla Walla fruit. Already the Cabernet and Merlot have been getting their share of gold and silver medals. I also got to sample a preview of their 2009 Estate Chardonnay. Oh, did it ever speak to me. I’ve been thinking about it ever since.

The new tasting room is filled with memories of Tim’s potato chip making days with a sculpture of the original red and white striped signature bag, as well as water color paintings of the snacks and potato chip bags. I had to ask Tim if he missed the chip business.

“People in the wine business are less competitive than in the snack business,” Tim said. “Driving a tractor adds years to your life.”

Article and photos by: Catie McIntyre Walker

Spring Release Weekend dos and don’ts

Catie McIntyre Walker — Wed, 28 Apr 2010 23:50:42 +0000

It’s that time of year again, when we make our lists and we check them twice, trying to find out which wines are naughty or nice. That’s right. It’s Spring Release in Walla Walla!

We love our wine tourists from near and far. We want you to get the most of your Spring Release Weekend. Now, you have probably heard all of these tips from me before, but here are some easy Do’s and Don’ts to ensure a great weekend for you and everybody.

Do hydrate-hydrate-hydrate. Drink lots of water and your head will thank you for it.

Do eat a big breakfast. This isn’t the time to be all dainty and munch on a granola bar. You are going to need some fuel to contain the wine so make it a biscuits-and-sausage gravy-kind of breakfast. Okay, if you insist, make it a Kobe beef striploin, foie gras hash browns and quail eggs paired with espresso. But you get my point.

Do step away from the fragrance. You may not be able to smell yourself, but everyone in the tasting room can, making their Merlot taste like grandpa’s “Old Spice.”

Don’t forget a designated driver. And seriously, even if you have a designated driver, what is the point of visiting 15 wineries in one day? Even after five wineries the palate begins to fatigue after several tastes and you become obnoxious. So pimp the ride, but un-pimp the ‘tude.

Do keep your cell phone ring off and if you must keep it on so your Secret Service people can keep track of you (because we know how important you are), at least keep it on vibrate. And if you must talk on your phone, please take it outside so your call doesn’t distract from the tasting room ambiance. Nobody wants to hear about how many poo-poos Johnny made in his diaper.

Do keep an open your mind to wine. Seriously. Don’t be turning your nose up at the tasting room staff when they ask if you would like to try a chardonnay, riesling or a pretty pink rosé. Taste it. Who knows? You might even like it. And it’s okay for real men to drink rosés. Really.

Do join a wine club. There are many great wine clubs in the Walla Walla Valley offering affordable memberships with discounts and special one of a kind releases. It’s also a great way to get in on some fabulous wine club events that will leave long lasting memories.

And one more thing. In the words of Robert Fulgham’s All I Really Need To Know I Learned in Kindergarten : Share everything, play fair, don’t hit people, put things back where you found them, clean up your own mess, don’t take things that aren’t yours, hold hands when you cross the streets, say you’re sorry when you hurt somebody, wash your hands before you eat and flush.

Have a great time in the Walla Walla Valley!

Merlot: Sideways & Sidetracked

Catie McIntyre Walker — Fri, 02 Apr 2010 14:59:49 +0000

The questions remains: Why did we take Hollywood’s dismissal of merlot literally? Many a wannabe wine snob took “Sideways” sullen leading man Miles Raymond seriously and shunned merlot. After all, it was Miles’ waxing poetic about pinot noir that got the girl, right?

Following the release of “Sideways” in October 2004, merlot sales dropped 2 percent while pinot noir sales increased 16 percent in the United States. About the same time, a few Washington state wineries that were known for merlot removed the grape from their portfolios. Some removed merlot from their vineyards and replaced this grape of Bordeaux origins with syrah or more of the popular cabernet sauvignon. The word on the vineyard street was, “Do not plant any more merlot.”

Now these drastic changes weren’t necessarily about how the wine consumer was feeling about merlot — it was more about the winemakers’ artistic style and how dramatically the weather had changed since the first merlot vines were planted in Washington in the early 1970s.

Washington state merlot started to gain popularity when it was first introduced and became our shining- star varietal in the late 1980s. This red grape from the Evergreen State is like no other with its big, bold, cherry flavors and complex nose that often includes mint, cigar-box and spices. It is also higher in acidity than its California cousins, which contributes to its being food- friendly. In spite of glowing accolades from around the nation, somewhere we became sidetracked.

However, there is good news on the horizon for merlot lovers. In February 2010, new research by The Nielsen Company regarding U.S. wine consumers’ buying patterns came to light. Evidently, merlot has the single largest consumer base of any varietal in the U.S. and, of the major wine varietals, is the one most closely associated with high quality at an affordable price. Most importantly, the report showed that wine lovers strongly agreed that merlot is a versatile and food-friendly everyday wine.

There is no merlot like one from Washington and, better yet, a merlot produced in the Walla Walla Valley. My advice: Revisit some of the “original” merlots, such as those from Woodward Canyon and L’Ecole No 41. I recently enjoyed the L’Ecole No 41 Columbia Valley Merlot – 2006. It was an affordable classic — rich and spicy, showing off big flavors of cherry, fig, plum and chocolate. Woodward Canyon’s Nelms Road merlot offers real value at $20, and has the structure to age for about five years.

Basel Cellars, Mannina Cellars and Skylite Cellars, to name a few local wineries, are producing merlot with Walla Walla fruit and — as The Neilson Company suggests — high quality at an affordable price. These aromatic, bold reds not only show off the big, luscious fruit from Walla Walla’s terroir, but are also pocketbook- friendly with accompanying accolades from the press.

Merlot often finds its way into my recipes. I think a bottle of merlot should be included in every spice rack between the jars labeled “Masala” and “mint.” Just last week a bottle of Washington merlot bubbled in my Boeuf Bourguignon à la Child-Pépin-Catie (Very important note: Jacques Pépin replaces beef stock with more wine — yes!) The French stew was rich and concentrated in flavors and made the house smell good, too. I could even smell the savory herbs and the sweetness of the wine from my patio.

So to all of you Miles Raymonds out there: Waxing poetic about pinot noir isn’t going to win this girl, but if you remove pinot noir and insert merlot in your romantic spiel, you just might get my attention.

CATIE MCINTYRE WALKER writes “Through the Walla Walla Grape Vine” blog at http://www.wildwallawallawinewoman.blogspot.com and Twitter’s @Catie and @Walla2WineWoman.

Show Your Support – We Love Washington Merlot!

Catie McIntyre Walker — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 15:51:38 +0000

Here in Washington State, and especially in Walla Walla, we really didn’t care what the sullen Merlot-bashing character, Miles Raymond from the movie Sideways, felt about one of our favorite wines. We were secure enough about our position in the wine world, that it was obvious that Miles Raymond had never tasted a Merlot from Washington State. So, the joke was on him!

Grab a couple of bottles or more of your favorite Washington Merlot and join us Thursday, March 25 from 5 – 8 pm PDT to show your support on Twitter! Help us send a unified message around the Twitter Nation. You can Tweet from home, a local winery, a wine bar, or a restaurant. Make it a party and gather all of your friends! Through the night, you’ll be able to see what everyone is saying about Washington Merlot and you may be able to connect with other wine lovers enjoying the same bottle of Merlot!

Video after the break.

Show your support for one of our “native” grapes – the “blackbird” of French wines – the red grape that has been typically used as a blending grape – a wine that only Washington State’s soil could turn it into a single varietal in a bottle showing off it’s deep color and balanced acidity – Merlot!

For more information and to sign up for this exciting free online event, check it out at Washington Merlot!

Unlike Miles Raymond who yelled in protest, “No, if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any #%*&ing Merlot!” We’ll be cheering, “No, if nobody orders Merlot, we’re leaving! We’re drinking #%*&ing Merlot!”

Wine, dine, and learn at Waterbrook

Catie McIntyre Walker — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 16:29:24 +0000

It’s an oasis on West Highway 12. The artfully designed buildings of Waterbrook is a haven for relaxation, whether it is indoors or out. Waterbrook’s Tasting Room is contemporary, but still influenced by the natural setting of the Northwest. From the many windows and glass walls, one can soak in the views of the large ponds, pastures of native grass and the beautiful Blue Mountains. If you time it just right you can catch a coral and lavender- colored sunset while sipping a glass of Waterbrook’s award-winning wine.

There’s a lot going on at Waterbrook. Not only will you find an extensive list of wines for every palate and pocketbook, but on weekends you can enjoy the comfortable surroundings with a glass of wine and small appetizer plates that are large on flavors. Also available are goodies-to-go for an impromptu picnic, such as an assortment of gourmet crackers, cheeses, cured meats and local chocolates.

Ceil Blaine, Executive Chef of Waterbrook Winery has recently announced Wednesday Night Cooking Classes at the winery’s tasting room. It’s all about home cooking that has been kicked up a notch and of course, food that is wine friendly. From now until June 2, Waterbrook winery will offer a variety of classes from soup, flatbreads, crackers, brunch, Italian, Tapas, Thai, Cioppino and even how to infuse lavender in your menus. Ceil says the space is limited, so contact the winery for more information at (509) 522-1262.

Now, this is the way to learn with food and wine at such a beautiful setting. Waterbrook Winery really does have it all and what a way to make an entrance to Walla Walla for the wine lover who is planning a wine get-away.