The Chef’s Table – Jake Crenshaw

Kristen Telander — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 17:21:30 +0000

Chef Jake Crenshaw would be there to create the sense of calm, order and serenity you’d find at an ashram, while everyone’s favorite front-of-the house man Tom Maccarone would keep conversation and drinks flowing.

Crenshaw is your go-to, grace-under-pressure kinda guy. Through his cooking, he has the humility of Clark Kent and the star-quality of Superman.

Though he could have the ego of a small country, having graced the kitchens of Michel Richard’s Citronelle in Santa Barbara, Sazarac and Tamara Murphy’s Brasa in Seattle (to name just a few), Crenshaw confines his selfdom to his kitchen and quietly goes about his business. He leaves the buzz out on the floor.

With two landmark restaurants closing recently, to what do you attribute T. Mac’s good fortune?

Chef Jake : It’s never OK when restaurants close in a town. For us, I think what’s helped is that we’re seen as a value. We like to keep our portions on the large size and keep our prices as low as we possibly can. And, we made the decision to be open every day – you can always get a meal here at 8 p.m. on a Sunday, or at 8:45 p.m. on a Monday. It’s all about the customer.

Do you need music when you cook?

It’s nice but it can be distracting. I’m a mellow guy – I like NPR.

Any quirky traits/superstitions you’re known for in the kitchen?

When you’re presenting food, odd numbers are better than even. Even numbers are bad luck.

Kitchen tool you can’t live without?

My old 10-inch Global chef knife. I’ve had it for 12 years now and it’s about an inch shorter than when I fi rst got it.

Is there an unlikely food pairing or combination that’s really worked?

I defiantly believe in keeping food balanced, having adequate acidity and salt, and also having savory sweet combinations. We have a duck dish on the menu right now with our house-cured pancetta, dates and a white bean ragout. I finish it with maple syrup and white balsamic vinegar and the results are great.

What chef would you like to cook a meal for you?

Ferran Adriá from El Bulli in Catalonia — he completely pushes the envelope. Adria is known for “molecular gastronomy” (now referred to as “techno-emotional” cuisine) … In fact, I would love to eat my way through Spain right now.

Underrated ingredient?

Fresh eggs! My wife and I have chickens and the difference between a real egg from a happy chicken and the store-bought ones is incredible. Ginger Case and her family (Chicken Chore Treasures) have some of the best eggs in the Valley – we buy every egg that they can produce for us.

Pet peeve in the industry?

When more attention is placed on how food looks rather than how it tastes.

If I were to open your refrigerator at home, what would I find?

A lot of tofu and vegetables.

What do you like to cook at home?

Asian food and comfort foods. I’m trying to hone my Korean soup skills right now.

The Chef’s Table – Caleb Moss

Kristen Telander — Sun, 01 Mar 2009 16:41:52 +0000

Bob Parish opened Backstage Bistro back in the day when the most action downtown was a tumbleweed bouncing down Main Street. He’s since helped put fine dining on the map in Walla Walla, and new chef Caleb Moss is sure to keep it there.

The young chef’s cooking education reads like a story from the school of hard knocks and makes one appreciate his rise through the culinary ranks all the more. Moss earned his professionalism and refined palate by working in a plateful of restaurants in town.

And, he’s got Parish watching his back. “There’s a difference in the way he approaches the whole business of chefing that you don’t see very often,” Parish says. “He’s cooking for you. That’s different than the guy that sees the ticket come through and says, ‘Oh, I’ve got to make one of these.’ Every single ticket is important. Some people aren’t like that. And they don’t work here anymore.”

Did you always want to be a chef?
CHEF CALEB: No. I kind of stumbled into restaurant work at a young age because I needed a job. So I started bussing tables and doing dishes at Clarette’s.

Your big break?
Creektown. Bill and Tom are awesome. That’s when the passion kicked in.

There’s this sandwich there that changed my life. It used to be called the Tuscan Beef and now it’s…
(laughing) That was mine. Roast beef with a little tomato and roasted red pepper chutney and …

No way.
Way.

So you’ve brought that vision here …
I took the momentum Bob built with steaks, barbeque and pasta and jazzed it up. I jazzed it.

Kitchen personality vs. “street” personality?
Some people tell me I’m intimidating. When I’m in the kitchen I defi nitely have my game face on. I live for the busy nights. A 20-top? Bring it on.

Underrated ingredient?
Citrus. A little goes a long way. And snow peas, they’re so fresh and refreshing. I’ve used them in a slaw with carrots and leeks, slightly seared and put on top of a white fish and finish it with basil oil. It’s light and lovely.

Overrated item on menus these days?
Fois gras. Give it a rest.

Is there an unlikely food pairing or combination that’s really worked?
I made a puree of scallions, spinach, cilantro, chicken stock and sour cream and served it as an accompaniment to fi sh with fruit salsa. People thought, ‘Really?’ The bitterness of the greens with the sweetness of the salsa was incredible.

Music you cook to?
Whatever comes in on that little radio back there. Sometimes it’s “Girls Just Wanna Have Fun” and me and Eduardo just look at each other (laughing).

Style or motto for your style of cooking?
I don’t do snooty food. Rustic, fresh, light, simple, beautiful – let the food do its thing.

Menu item you’re most proud of?
(long pause and chin scratching) I did come up with this crab stuffed filet of sole. I marinate tomatoes in balsamic and extra virgin olive oil and mix them with other top secret ingredients (laughing) – a little bit of freshness right on top.

Best advice received?
It’s not about you.

Wine and Dine Walla Walla » The Chef’s Table

The Chef’s Table – Jake Crenshaw

The Chef’s Table – Caleb Moss