Jennifer Northam talks with Tom Maccarone about Olive Marketplace. Get a sneak peak at the new digs before it’s open. Only on the Downtown Buzz, sponsored by the Walla Walla Downtown Foundation.
Chef Jake Crenshaw would be there to create the sense of calm, order and serenity you’d find at an ashram, while everyone’s favorite front-of-the house man Tom Maccarone would keep conversation and drinks flowing.
Crenshaw is your go-to, grace-under-pressure kinda guy. Through his cooking, he has the humility of Clark Kent and the star-quality of Superman.
Though he could have the ego of a small country, having graced the kitchens of Michel Richard’s Citronelle in Santa Barbara, Sazarac and Tamara Murphy’s Brasa in Seattle (to name just a few), Crenshaw confines his selfdom to his kitchen and quietly goes about his business. He leaves the buzz out on the floor.
With two landmark restaurants closing recently, to what do you attribute T. Mac’s good fortune?
Chef Jake : It’s never OK when restaurants close in a town. For us, I think what’s helped is that we’re seen as a value. We like to keep our portions on the large size and keep our prices as low as we possibly can. And, we made the decision to be open every day – you can always get a meal here at 8 p.m. on a Sunday, or at 8:45 p.m. on a Monday. It’s all about the customer.
Do you need music when you cook?
It’s nice but it can be distracting. I’m a mellow guy – I like NPR.
Any quirky traits/superstitions you’re known for in the kitchen?
When you’re presenting food, odd numbers are better than even. Even numbers are bad luck.
Kitchen tool you can’t live without?
My old 10-inch Global chef knife. I’ve had it for 12 years now and it’s about an inch shorter than when I fi rst got it.
Is there an unlikely food pairing or combination that’s really worked?
I defiantly believe in keeping food balanced, having adequate acidity and salt, and also having savory sweet combinations. We have a duck dish on the menu right now with our house-cured pancetta, dates and a white bean ragout. I finish it with maple syrup and white balsamic vinegar and the results are great.
What chef would you like to cook a meal for you?
Ferran Adriá from El Bulli in Catalonia — he completely pushes the envelope. Adria is known for “molecular gastronomy” (now referred to as “techno-emotional” cuisine) … In fact, I would love to eat my way through Spain right now.
Underrated ingredient?
Fresh eggs! My wife and I have chickens and the difference between a real egg from a happy chicken and the store-bought ones is incredible. Ginger Case and her family (Chicken Chore Treasures) have some of the best eggs in the Valley – we buy every egg that they can produce for us.
Pet peeve in the industry?
When more attention is placed on how food looks rather than how it tastes.
If I were to open your refrigerator at home, what would I find?
A lot of tofu and vegetables.
What do you like to cook at home?
Asian food and comfort foods. I’m trying to hone my Korean soup skills right now.
